24 Hours in the Swamp
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| The Sentinel after a spring rain – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
I know I go on and on about how important our swamps and wetlands are for the hydrology of our southern states, but they’re also one of the best places for wildlife and adventure in what’s left of our lowcountry wilderness. This month I took two friends, Darrin Hamlin and Van Whitehead from the mountains and brought them into the heart of old growth swamp within the Francis Beidler Forest to slog and explore. We met up with Audubon naturalist Rickey Covey on the second day and I promised Darrin, a dedicated waterfall seeker, that before the trip was over he’d understand why these habitats are my bread and butter. The swamp did not disappoint.
Here’s what we discovered in just 24 hours:
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| From left to right, Van Whitehead, Mac Stone, and Darrin Hamlin around the “Sentinel” |
My first goal was to find the “Sentinel” which is one of the Beidler Forest’s largest cypress trees. Scientists estimate this tree to be around 1200-1400 years old. You might recognize the tree from our Swamp Stomp video a few years ago. Since the interior is hollow, it’s impossible to get an accurate age. Still, the way this tree dominates the forest lets you know it’s been anchored here for a very long time.
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| Nurse log – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
The spring is my favorite time to explore Beidler Forest. The greens are electric, the canopy is full of sound from songbirds and owls, and the water flows, leaving little room for mosquitoes to breed.
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| Emerging dragonfly – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Tupelo – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
On this trip I used my 50mm f/1.4 for several landscapes to help isolate certain subjects. Normally, this would make the small ripples in the water to actually add extra noise to the image, but I added 9 stops of neutral density to get the slow speeds while maintaining shallow depth.
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| Tupelo and Cypress Island – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Darrin Hamlin slogs through one of the main sloughs – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Cypress sapling and Cypress Knee Window – Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Brown Water Snake – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Brown Water Snake – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
After the first night we looked at our maps and decided to head back further into the old growth swamp, getting into the deeper sloughs and exploring some of the more remote sections of Beidler Forest. We left at first light and got into some gorgeous sections of the swamp. While walking through one of the upland islands, we came across this mysterious feature.
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| Hog bed – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
I have never seen one of these before, but as soon as we approached the woven bed of palmettos, 6 piglets scurried across the ground. I had no idea that their parents put this much effort into their babies.
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| Piglets – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
Finally, the much anticipated rains let loose and the swamp came alive. Everything became more saturated and I hurried along with my camera like a kid in a candy shop. There is nothing more magical than photographing in an old growth swamp beneath a spring rain.
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| The Rains – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Cypress Knee – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Greenish Rat Snake – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Whitetail Deer Fawn – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Old Growth – Francis Beidler Forest – Photo © Mac Stone |
Only 24 hours and we experienced all this beauty and wilderness. To think, most people associate swamps with a slew of negative adjectives. The highlight of the trip for me was after stumbling upon the whitetail deer fawn and Darrin turns to me and says, “Mac, I’ve seen more wildlife in the two days I’ve been here with you than I have in 10 years in the mountains.”
Long live the swamp.
NANPA High School Scholarship Program
The North American Nature Photography Association annual summit was a success this year in Jacksonville, Florida. As always, it was an incredible experience and great to see old friends and a fresh batch of high school scholarship students. This year I was lucky enough to be chair of the scholarship program which is really great considering that 11 years ago it was me who was one of the students attending the summit in Albuquerque, New Mexico. What a full circle!
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| NANPA High School students around a fire on Cumberland Island |
As chair of the program, I wanted to mix things up a bit and try something new. In years past, we would stay at the summit hotel then make day trips out to various locations to shoot. Since I was so familiar with the area already, I knew there was a great opportunity to actually spend a few nights out in the field, camping with the kids and really focusing on making images from dawn to dusk and well into the night. First, though, was assembling a team of instructors: Ray Pfortner, David Moynahan, and Carolyn Derrington-Tate. Along with a solid team, we had great sponsorships this year from Canon, Wimberley, Manfrotto/Bogen, Delkin, and Hunts Photo and Video.
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| Victoria Cruz runs through a tidal pond on Cumberland Island while photographing wild marsh tackies |
While camping, we had our fair share of obstacles. The weather was not cooperating and it poured for the first day and a half. Still, the kids kept their positivity and thrived in the less than optimal conditions. We ate delicious meals around a blazing campfire, chased wild horses around the tidal marshes, and braved the winds and sands of Cumberland Island’s coastline. The images the students made were absolutely stunning and they all have a bright future ahead of them.
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| Victoria Cruz, Lione Clare, and Sophie Harrison photograph wild horses on Cumberland Island |
After the full week of photography, workshops, and keynotes, the students had a chance to showcase their images to more than 400 photographers on the last evening just before Art Wolfe gave his lifetime achievement speech. The students had 15 minutes to present their work and here is the video of that speech. I can’t tell you how proud I am to have spent a week with this brilliant individuals.
Cangrejal River – Bejuco Waterfall – Honduras
If you haven’t been following along on my Facebook Page, then you missed out on a fun 2-week blog-style story. No problem, though, I’ll share the love here too.
Sandhill Cranes – Mycotoxins
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| Sandhill cranes fly over Kanapaha Prairie – Gainesville, FL – Photo ©Mac Stone |
The sandhill cranes’ arrival in Florida is the sure sign of winter. They come in with the staccato trumpet calls that pierce the morning air and echo through the prairie’s live oak rim. Their migratory populations have ebbed and flowed over the years on the prairie, some years with over 1,500 individuals and other years only a few dozen. There doesn’t seem to be a solid explanation for this, but some believe its due to the amount of dog fennel that grows up to 6 feet high and gives the cranes a natural barrier from potential predators like coyotes and bobcats. Without the vegetation, they simply pass over the prairie and onto greener pastures. ![]() |
| Sandhill cranes at sunrise on Kanapaha Prairie – Photo ©Mac Stone |
One of my favorite things in the winter is to go out and photograph the sandhills at sunrise. When polar fog exhales from the wetlands, their silhouettes dot the horizon and make for some great images. On these mornings though, I’m not the only one stalking birds. If sandhills usher in the day with their calls, then coyotes are the denizens of the night. Their mad cackling can be heard from a mile away and I can’t help but wonder while I’m sitting around the backyard fire, what they’re howling about. No matter how close they sound, every time I go looking for them they’re nowhere to be found. After their raucous nights, though, I’m always certain to find the remains of their prey in a cloud of feathers on the cold prairie floor. ![]() |
| A lone coyote stalks a flock of sandhill cranes on Kanahapa Prairie – Photo ©Mac Stone |
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| Sandhill crane infected by mycotoxin, fusariotoxin – Kanahapa Prairie – Photo ©Mac Stone |
Not wanting to stress the bird or cause it any more pain if its wing really was injured, I stayed back and watched it for a while. It was really sad to watch. The crane would call out to its flock in a broken shrill and the others didn’t respond. It’s limp neck eventually lost all mobility and hung low as if paralyzed. In the deeper water, it could barely keep its beak high enough to breathe. I apologize for the graphic photos.![]() |
| Sandhill crane infected by mycotoxin, fusariotoxin – Kanahapa Prairie – Photo ©Mac Stone |
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| Sandhill crane, probable cause of death: mycotoxins from molded grains – Kanahapa Prairie – Photo ©Mac Stone |
The Shadow of Superman
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| Larry Heaton conquers Savage Mountain in Orlando, Florida – August 2011 |
As long as I can remember, every year my family traveled up to Virginia for Thanksgiving to visit our cousins, uncles, and grandparents. It was always a big celebration lasting 4 or 5 days, with no one wanting to go home at the end. Our family is tight. From the oldest cousin to the youngest, we are a band of brothers. When all the ten male cousins were younger we would play a big game of tackle football which we called the Gravy Bowl. It was the highlight of the year. I dreaded the plays where Larry, my uncle, got the ball. His 6’7” 245lb frame would barrel down the field and my only hope to stop the touchdown was to jump on his back and dangle from his neck until the ground rumbled with his fall. Sure, he could have carried me with his free arm while hurdling the other eager cousins if he wanted to, but he played along and gifted me the glory instead.
Larry always did that. He loved letting other people shine and even when he wasn’t extending any uncommon courtesies, it just felt good to be around him. I looked forward to our fireside chats every year. He would recount his latest adventure in humble tones, passing off such mountainous hurdles like summiting Mt Rainier or whittling away at the Appalachien Trail while carrying large rocks in his pack, as if they were mere tasks on a to-do list. There’s a wall in the Heaton house that is littered with medals and artifacts of his adventures and when old enough, his sons, Daniel and Matt came with him.
At 55 years old, this past November, my uncle Larry had just completed an ultramarathon. He ran 55 miles from 8:00 in the morning until 1:30 the next morning, only resting for twenty minutes. When I asked him what kept him going, he said that for each mile, he recalled each year of his life and relived the miles of memories with his high school sweetheart Betty, his sons, work, and friends. His commanding presence and brick build were secondary only to his fortitude as a person.
Larry’s motto in both personal and business life was simple: “Leave on a good one.” Don’t walk out of the room, come off the mountain, or turn the light off before knowing you had given the day your best.
Only two weeks after we all held hands and said a blessing for the future of family over Thanksgiving, Larry died in a car accident. Hundreds attended his funeral; so many that they had to set up televisions in the basement of the church he helped build so other friends could watch the service. People traveled from all over the country to pay their respects.
I realize now, that as I grew up, my childish adoration and reverence for Larry never really matured. I always felt physically and emotionally adolescent next to him, but in a way that made me want to push harder, so I too would have something to talk about when we sat by the fire.
I will forever remember him as the mountain who conquered mountains and the Superman who proved to the world that a body is merely a vehicle for great things.
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| Larry with family Daniel, Betty, and Matt Heaton at Thanksgiving in Collinsville, VA – November 2012 |
Garden and Gun Shoot – American Grocery – Greenville, SC
It’s funny to me when talking to my friends in Tennessee and South Carolina how they write Florida off from the confederation of southern states. To many, Florida is the vestigial appendage that doesn’t quite fit in with the others. There’s probably some truth to that with all the northerners who have come down in their later years, but I always took a little offense. With latitude aside, I grew up with Southern Living magazine on our coffee table, bronze pineapples on the front door which I would always hold open for my mom or any other females that walked through, and I’m pretty sure there were a few monogramed towels laying around the house as well. So why weren’t we part of southern club?
Sure, there’s some dirty history with the South, but there’s also a lot of rich culture and tradition so I felt a little shafted knowing I was left out of that group. Then, miraculously, in 2007 a magazine called Garden & Gun hit the newsstands, highlighting southern culture from Virginia to the Bahamas, including Florida, and we were all suddenly part of the same coalition of states that reveled in food-coma-inducing cuisine, outdoor recreation, and bootleg culture. I loved this magazine, maybe in part because it venerated me but also because that southern pride showed through every aspect of the publication. With heavy stock pages, beautiful photography, and soulful writing, Garden & Gun quickly became one of the hottest magazines in the US during their first year.
From that moment on, I’ve always wanted to shoot for Garden and Gun. Their stories are compelling, the imagery iconic and original and their pages swell with pride for this intangible thing we all call southern. A few weeks ago I finally had a chance to lend my camera to their magazine and I’m hoping this will just be the start to a long lasting relationship. Here are a few photos from the shoot at American Grocery during the Harvest Dinner in Greenville, South Carolina. For more images, though, you can go to the website and browse the event here: Autumnal Harvest Dinner
In terms of photography, it was a tough shoot. Low light and lots of movement made the event difficult to cover. I managed though with two camera bodies: Canon 5d mkii and Canon 7d. One of the bodies worked a 50mm f/1.4 and the other a 70-200mm f/2.8, an overall good combination for these sort of shoots. I also used a strobe to add fill by bouncing off the ceiling. While certainly it’s a break from the normal natural history images, it’s fun to keep the creative brain fresh and challenged and hopefully this event will lead to something bigger. You just never know.
Everglades Keynote – Miami Beach
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| Skimmers at Sunset – Everglades National Park – ©Mac Stone |
If you’re in the South Florida area on Wednesday November 28th, join me and Audubon in Miami Beach for a wonderful evening of food, wine, and photography, which is always a winning combination. I’ll be giving a keynote on Everglades conservation and the work Audubon has been doing to protect one of our national treasures.
For more information and to reserve your spot, follow the link: Mac Stone Everglades Keynote Invite
Savage Race – Little Everglades Ranch
Well, the boys at Savage Race have done it again. Each event has eclipsed the last and on October 20th at Little Everglades Ranch in Dade City, Florida, they proved to 4,000 adrenaline junkies that they’re the official peddlers of pain in the mud race community. In a span of only six miles they built 25 brutal obstacles including the three-story “Colossus,” a twisted half pipe which leads to a swallow-your-stomach water slide and the innovative “Evil Bars,” which is the silverback gorilla to other races’ playground jungle gyms.
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| Starting line stampede – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
Again this year, I was assigned to shoot the race and was stoked to know the participants would be slogging through a mini version of my favorite stomping grounds, the Everglades. As always, it was a tough shoot accounting for a large area, harsh light, and of course, high intensity mud-slinging. All throughout the day I was climbing atop obstacles, chest-deep in water, or waist deep in mud. By the end I felt like I had run the race several times over.
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| Walkers on the “Nutt Smasher” – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
My approach to shooting these events is to make sure I get right in the middle of the action, or sometimes right below it. I’ve found that if I’m not physically engaged with course, then my photos will feel detached too. This philosophy can be dangerous for equipment, but much like wildlife photography, the safest option usually produces “safe” images and the Savage Race crew wanted edgy. So I tried to give them edgy.
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| Diving over the fire pit – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
Here’s a handful of some of my favorites from the day as well as a few shots just to show you some of the obstacles. If you’re into mud races and a day of fun with your friends, then you need to go and register for one of their upcoming events. Savage Race is creating the new standard for obstacle racing.
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| Starting line – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Hay Stacks – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Championing the Hay Stacks – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Captain America helping a friend up “Colossus” – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Nutt Smasher – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Not quite up the Colossus – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Grinding the Evil Bars – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Colossus half pipe – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Tazed N Blazed – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Gettin Tazed N Blazed – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Priceless face before getting shocked – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Fire jump – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Evil Bars – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Shriveled Richard – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Colossus – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Scaling the 96” Stiffie – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Nuff said – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Greg Stone hangin on the Evil Bars – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Davy Jones’ Locker – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Backflip off Davy Jones’ Locker – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Savage Race founder Sam Abbitt trying his Wicked Bars – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
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| Air Force team looking for their keys – Photo ©Savage Race/Mac Stone |
And my favorite photo of the race: the Air Force team breaking into their own car to get their keys out.
Election Day
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| Presidential overthrow march – Lucio Gutierrez – Quito, Ecuador – 2005 – Photo © Mac Stone |
Seven years ago in Ecuador I watched as Quito fell apart during a violent presidential overthrow. Molotov cocktails rained from the sky and buses burned in the street. It was a terribly sad time. Friends of mine were rushed to the hospital
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| Margie Boyd – A Bar A Ranch – Wyoming – Photo © Mac Stone |
Scary Things…
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| Cottonmouth – Big Cypress National Preserve – Photo © Mac Stone |
We all have things, or maybe ideas rather, that crawl under our skin and cause our heart to beat a little faster. I have a few friends who are absolutely terrified of snakes. In fact, just looking at this photo above makes them extremely uncomfortable. One friend told me “Mac, I mean this in the nicest way, but I hate this (photo).” I’ve never had this sort of visceral fear of anything tangible, that I can think of. I love snakes, insects, alligators, and all that creepy crawly and squishy stuff. I’m more afraid of situations or of the idea that I’m not in control. Maybe some of you have this too, but I’ve always been afraid when standing atop tall buildings or bridges that my alter ego is going to rise up and make me jump. This is the same dark side that starts to itch when police walk by and a part of me feels the urge to grab their gun and say, “ha ha, just kidding.” Does this happen to anyone else? Weird.
Well, if you’re one of the people terrified of images of snakes and alligators and other denizens of the swamp, then this next part isn’t for you. For the next two months I’ll have 12 large format canvas prints on exhibit at Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary in Naples, Florida. Running from November 5th until the end of December I’ll be displaying and selling these prints which highlight the Everglades watershed and its many landscapes and fauna. Go check it out if you have the chance, because I will be unveiling a few images which I’ve never displayed to the public. If you’re wanting to jump on the Christmas shopping early, head to the swamp because the canvas prints at 2 ft x 3ft are on sale with part of the proceeds going to Audubon’s beautiful Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary. What does a 2ft x 3ft gallery wrapped canvas look like? Well, I’m glad you asked…
Get Low
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| “Edge of the World” – Florida Bay – Everglades National Park |
NANPA High School Scholarship Program
In February of next year, 10 more lucky students will have the chance to attend NANPA’s fourteenth high school scholarship program for a chance to learn from the industry’s top shooters and photography publishers. I’m extremely excited to announce that I will be taking over as chair of this program and will be joined by instructors Ray Pfortner, David Moynahan, and Marina Scarr in Jacksonville, Florida. Only ten years ago, I was one of the fortunate few selected for this program in Albuquerque New Mexico and I can’t begin to count the ways it has shaped my life. Now, here I am about to take lead on cultivating the next generation of nature photographers in my home state!
We are seeking talent from all over, so if you know of any high schoolers or students 14-18 years old with a passion for photography please send them this invitation. You never know how it might shape their lives.
Pretty in Pink
The spoonbill saga continues. I just went down to the Keys for a week to train the new head of spoonbill research at the Tavernier Science Center. When I walked in the office, Dr. Jerry Lorenz handed me a book from Bearport Publishing. I completely forgot I submitted images nearly 6 months ago on this project and here it was, printed, bound, and ready for distribution.
The author, Stephen Person, contacted me early this year to help collaborate on a children’s book about the roseate spoonbill and the work we did with National Audubon and the Tavernier Science Center. Jerry helped with the text and while it has the illustrative feel and design of a children’s book, it’s actually incredibly informative about the Everglades ecosystem and the lives of these beautiful birds. If you have a child who needs a good book this Christmas, give this one a shot. You can tell them you know one of the photographers!
You can find it here on Amazon: Roseate Spoonbill, Pretty in Pink
Caption Contest on Facebook
Love for the Swamp
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For those of you that missed it in the bookstores, BBC Wildlife Magazine did a 13-page feature portfolio on my work in America’s Swamps. This was pretty exciting for me as a photographer, but especially significant from a wetland conservationist standpoint. We’re finally getting swamps some positive PR!
The BBC staff are top notch. They’re extremely thorough, inquisitive, and insightful; so when I was going back and forth with them about the layout and captions, it was a surprisingly painless process. The only complaint that they expressed was not having enough pages for the images I submitted. Can’t get better feedback than that!
If you’d like to check out the actual portfolio complete with captions in PDF version: Click Here
Or, you can find the online gallery of some of these photos here: America’s Swamps
Congaree National Park
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| Water moccasin basking along Cedar Creek in Congaree National Park – © Mac Stone |
Three years ago during the spring season I worked as a canoe guide and naturalist in Audubon’s Francis Beidler Forest. You’ve heard me brag about this place countless times but that’s because it’s one of the more magnificent places I’ve ever been. I remember feeling like I was part of a team, not just because I worked with other dedicated people in the same building, but because we were constantly trying to find new recruits for Four Holes Swamp. We had to earn the adoration of each wary soul that walked through our door because we wanted to be the darling of the lowcountry, the gem of the sodden bottomlands. This might have been an easy feat if we were the only ones promoting large tracts of cypress and tupelo swamp, but there was another nature reserve only an hour away with a bigger budget and a wider audience also offering boardwalk tours, canoeing, and large old-growth trees: Congaree National Park. In my three months of living only 45 minutes away, I never took the time to visit the park; partly out of spite, partly out of a swelling pride, but mostly because Beidler had everything I needed. I didn’t realize it at the time, but I had been chugging the Beidler Kool-Aid for so long that when I left for the Everglades in the fall of 2009 and ran into a former Congaree National Park seasonal, we got into a heated debate as to who’s swamp was better. We had both been trained in the arts of tour-guiding and we knew our tag lines well. I would say, “We have the largest stand of old growth tupelo and cypress swamp in the world, enough said.” Heather would then retort with “Well, we have the largest tract of old-growth bottomland hardwood forest in the world.” And there we stood, proud, stubborn, and divided.
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| Old-growth cypress and tupelo trees along Cedar Creek in Congaree National Park – © Mac Stone |
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| Brown watersnake – © Mac Stone |
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| Colorful cottonmouth at the base of the tupelo tree – © Mac Stone |
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| Wise Lake, Congaree National Park – © Mac Stone |
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| Primitive hammock camping along Cedar Creek – © Mac Stone |
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| Self-portrait hammock camping – © Mac Stone |
Making the Dreamcatcher
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| “The Dreamcatcher” – Florida Bay – Everglades National Park – © Mac Stone |
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| “Anchored in the Bay” – Florida Bay – Everglades National Park – Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Me photographing “The Dreamcatcher” – Everglades National Park photo by Will Stone |
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| Photo by Will Stone |
This mangrove is massive and sits upon a large grass flat. To access at low tide, it requires a heart-pounding slog, which is particularly difficult at 6:00 AM. 99% of the time I use a tripod, but for the image “Anchored in the Bay” which I am shown photographing here, I decided not to bring it because I knew the light was strong and I wouldn’t be attempting any long exposures since the wind was steadily gusting. With any plant or tree-photography, wind is a huge factor. Typically I shoot in the mornings because the wind is calmer than in the afternoons. Since I’m looking for dramatic light I know that a windy day will cause the branches to sway and leaves to shake. In low light situations this is a deal-breaker for long exposures. Many mornings I left with the wind at 0-5mph only to arrive at the mangrove with 10-15mph winds increasing as the sun peaked the horizon.
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| Mangrove at dawn – Florida Bay – Everglades National Park – Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Photo © Mac Stone |
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| “The Dreamcatcher” – Florida Bay – Everglades National Park – © Mac Stone |
Finally, on what I determined to be my last chance of photographing this tree, I went out with a group of friends and a bucket of cold drinks. When I saw the clouds shifting on the western horizon, I was overjoyed knowing that perhaps finally I had my sky. I left the bucket and my friends on the boat and slogged out to the tree waiting for the sun to get just above the horizon. For thirty seconds it held and I managed two frames. I used a reflector to add fill light to the mangrove and a neutral density filter to smooth out the water. It was a culmination of all the right elements and I knew as soon as I triggered the shutter that this would be “the one.” It was a vantage point I never tried before, but I wouldn’t have arrived at the conclusion during the right light had I not tried a dozen times before from different angles.
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| “Dreamcatcher Dusk” – Florida Bay – Everglades National Park – Photo © Mac Stone |
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| Photo © Mac Stone |
The Dreamcatcher
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| “The Dreamcatcher” – Florida Bay – Everglades National Park – Photo © Mac Stone |
The Everglades hosts the largest continuous stand of mangroves in the world. These gothic trees, with their crawling prop roots and arching limbs, are one of my favorite subjects to photograph. They each take on their own personality formed by wind, water, light, and even by the birds that roost upon their branches. Of the entire 850 square miles of Florida Bay that I’ve explored, however, there is only one particular mangrove that I have come to regard as my favorite. It sounds ridiculous to admit this, to hold preference of one tree over millions, but this partisanship isn’t unique to just me. All of my coworkers at Audubon each have their adored mangrove, one that seems to smile back at them when their boats race by.
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| “Dreamcatcher Dusk” – Florida Bay – Everglades National Park – Photo © Mac Stone |
Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition
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| Me with Carlton on the morning of their departure from Florida Bay |
I was there for the first day of the expedition when Carlton Ward Jr, Mallory Lykes Dimmit, Joe Guthrie, and Elam Stoltzfus set out on their 100 day/1,000 mile journey from Florida Bay to Okeefenokee Swamp. I remember feeling a palpable envy knowing that they would be crossing some of the most wild and scenic regions of Florida. The simple idea of traveling 1,000 miles by your own sweat and grit, without the aid of pavement, is a crazy one by most standards. But crazy ideas and groundbreaking efforts are usually what it takes to move mountains. And if Florida is going to provide a corridor stretching from the Everglades to Georgia for endangered wildlife like panthers and black bears, well, some mountains will need to be moved.
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| Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition map |
I planned on meeting up with Carlton and the crew along several stops of their journey but never found the time as I was wrapped up in my own adventures. When Carlton called me to come and join them on the final stretch through Okeefenokee Swamp, no matter what it was going to take, I knew I had to go. Having photographed his group for 100 days, it turned out no one had really taken images of Carlton, so it was my job to capture the essence of the group as a whole as well as its fearless leader. I felt a little like Nick Nichols on expedition with Mike Fay in the African Congo Megatransect, a story that I drooled over when it was published in National Geographic in 2001.
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| The headlights of my truck offer a quick photo opportunity before taking off on the Suwannee River |
When I pulled into Griffis Fish Camp, it was 11:30 PM. There was no moon, just stars and a cacophony of frogs and toads. I had no idea where the expedition team was, just a general sense that they’d be South on the Suwanee River somewhere, camped along the banks. Carlton said he would leave a fire burning but that was at 9:00. I considered camping at the fish camp but knew that I needed early light photos of the group so I bit the bullet and paddled out into the darkness. My headlamp ruined my night vision so I turned it off and hoped for the best. Of all the things that could have scared me, the worst thing on the water at night were the wood ducks. It seemed they waited until they were right next to my boat when they would explode off the water. I felt so foolish when my nerves calmed. Finally, I pulled my kayak into camp around 1:30 and set up a tent, without so much of a stir from the team.
I woke the next morning at 5:30 to ready my camera gear and head out on the river for first light with Carlton. Polar fog was settling on the water and made for some great images with the looming tupelo and cypress along the banks. Carlton and I paddled upstream while the rest of the crew prepared breakfast and packed their tents. Photo shoots like these are tough. Since I didn’t have any time the day before to scout locations I had to work quickly to find compositions and opportunities where the light allowed. Luckily I was able to make a few frames before the fog lifted while gentle amber light still dappled the tops of the trees.
It’s an awkward thing being the subject of a photo, especially if you’re a photographer. All my friends will tell you the same thing as I constantly ask them to hold poses or look wantonly away from the lens. I think my girlfriend fears going out on hiking trips with me specifically for this reason. Carlton mused that he had never been in front of a camera so much as that morning with me. What can I say though? It was my job! I wasn’t going to let embarrassment or a small thing like courtesy get in the way of my images, I mean, do you think Nick Nichols would ever bashfully put away his camera with light like this? I don’t think so.
As soon as the sun started heating up the water, the light became too harsh and we pushed back to the camp to make moves for our lunch break at Griffis Fish Camp. It wasn’t until we were halfway there when Carlton told me we were actually stopping to meet up with Mike Fay, THE Mike Fay, who flew in from Washington to also join in on the last push of the expedition. (!!!!!!) Carlton had met Mike while photographing in Gabon and invited him to serve as the ultimate transect guru and guest speaker for their final arrival on Earth Day. If there’s anyone on this planet who knows about major transects to protect land, Mike is the authority.
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| Carlton Ward gets horizontal for a frisbee |
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| Joe Guthrie lays out for a disc on the Suwannee River |
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| Mallory Dimmit dives for a frisbee |
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| Carlton Ward and Mike Fay meet up on the Suwannee River to finish the last miles of the expedition together |
But there we were, all paddling up the Suwannee River into Okeefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and I couldn’t have been happier. Two of my conservation heroes on either side and a darkening sky with promises of thick heavy rain. If I were going to make this look like a hardcore expedition it couldn’t be all sunshine and rainbows. Luckily I packed a large golf umbrella on my kayak specifically for shooting in these conditions and when the skies opened up, I was ready.
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| Carlton and Joe G. portage over a fallen log |
Once the storm passed the Okeefenokee came alive. Prothonotary warblers echoed in the canopy and the lush swamp started closing in around the river. The Suwannee soon turned into a series of braided creeks and diffuse wetland. Trees had fallen across the water and we were forced to make a few precarious portages over the slippery logs. This was all pretty standard procedure to Carlton and Joe, who had seen their fair share of obstacles along the trek. There’s no such thing as an easy path along 1,000 miles of wilderness.
By the time we made it to our campsite, we were soaked to the bone. The rain picked up again and wouldn’t relent. All my camera gear was wet and I wasn’t looking forward to spending the night in a puddle. Not that I had much choice though and plus, I wouldn’t dare voice any complaint, not while in the presence of Mike who battled nearly every single discomfort known to man on his various transects. The chances for a fire were grim, until Joe found his axe and started to chop at burnt pine revealing lighter’d (lighter wood). We used my jet boil to get the coals going and soon enough we were warming up around a roaring campfire. Sweet, sweet, bliss.
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| Joe Davenport warms himself by the fire |
Around the fire we talked shop all night, discussing gear preferences, cameras, and favorite whiskeys. It didn’t take us long to finish the Maker’s Mark I brought either, giving us that extra warmth before heading to bed. I’m sure for Carlton, Joe, Elam, and Mallory, they feared the fading light of the campfire as much as they welcomed their warm sleeping bags. With the dawn would come an end, a bittersweet finale to an incredible journey. For a crew that’s been shoulder to shoulder for 100 days braving some of Florida’s wildest places I could see how the finish line might actually be a daunting thing.
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| From left, Mallory, Joe, Carlton, and Elam leave their campsite in Okeefenokee and make way for Steven Foster. |
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| Elam carries his bags to the boat |
After packing up, the group solemnly made their way to the kayaks. With only a couple miles between them and their welcoming committee at Stephen Foster, they took their time enjoying breakfast and drinking coffee. By 10:00 AM they were on the water and heading for the final stretch. Once momentum picked up and paddles were put to water, the group moved with lifted spirits.
Alligators and warblers traversed the calm river and our kayaks cut through the mirrored landscape. By 12:00 we were at the mouth of the canal leading to Stephen Foster State Park and the rain let loose from the sky again. It was a fitting end; one last push through Florida’s fickle weather to the crowds of media teams and adoring supporters.
Their arrival was well-received and people cheered as Elam, Mallory, Joe, and Carlton disembarked from their vessels. Wives, brothers, sisters, children, and daughters swarmed the expedition team with tears and warm embraces. After 100 days and 1000 miles, they finally made it home.
Dolphin Days
I didn’t plan on doing a video. In fact, I was ready to publish the below blog solely on dolphin photos until I came across this image, and it just sang to me. It typified the sunny afternoons spent in the slipstream of dolphin tails, watching them careen through the emerald Bay. But the image needed a little more motion if I were going to successfully share the experience with viewers. My still imagery is always reliant on the wild imagination of my audience to animate the rest of the story. However, there are just some things that a photo alone cannot capture; like the sound of a dolphin kiss. So, enjoy!There was a three-week period in March where Atlantic bottlenose dolphins seemed to be the running theme to my final days in the Keys. It was as if they followed my boat waiting for good light and their chance to shine in front of the camera.
Everywhere I turned, I found pods of dolphins feeding in the shallows, playing behind my wake, or riding the bow, showcasing their acrobatics and boasting free range of Florida Bay. No matter how many times I’ve seen them though, it’s always a treat knowing that in some capacity they’re as curious of me as I am of them. Surely, it’s a sign of intelligence when a mammal spends a great deal of its time exploring its curiosity, learning and interacting from the world. Or, as scientists like to say, “making sense of the senses.” Not to get too far into detail here, but recent studies are showing that this highly sophisticated level of brain function can be attributed to neurons known as spindle cells. These cells are found in other complex-brained animals like chimpanzees, whales, and apes. Biologists hypothesize that spindle neurons are the building blocks to cognitive learning and comprise the foundation for elaborate social interactions. For someone who works around skittish wildlife that constantly flees at the snap of twig, to have a wild animal approach me for once feels like a gift, a subtle ego-stroke even.
The real gift, however, came from my friends at Dolphin Cove. Jessica Lundstrum, Emily Campbell, and Jessica Lili are dolphin trainers who spend all their time interacting with these incredible animals. I’m sure everyone who ever visited Sea World at one point wanted to quit their job and take up dolphin or whale training. Thousands of people come down to the Keys to dive the reefs and to also spend an afternoon in one of the several swim programs they have around the islands with rehabilitated dolphins. Just before the busy season picks up, however, they need to acclimate the animals to strangers. This is where it pays to have friends at Dolphin Cove. I believe the text I received read like this, “Hey Mac, we need people to swim with dolphins this morning, can you come in?” It was 75 degrees and sunny. My reply? “Nah, I have some things to do around the house… uh… yes!”
Not 30 minutes later I was sitting on the bedrock bottom blowing big air bubbles while four bottlenose dolphins circled and squeaked around me. I strapped on my GoPro and got some fun clips of the playful animals as they tried desperately to figure out what that blinking red light on my head was. I couldn’t believe I waited two years to do this and even more so, surprised when the staff thanked me as I left, which seemed so backwards; like Willy Wonka thanking Augustus for drinking from his chocolate waterfall.
Man’s Best Friend
In this world there are few bonds stronger than that of a man and his dog. In the Keys, where bars and restaurants kindly open their doors to people and canines alike, many of the four-legged animals begin to socialize and create their own circle of friends. While most locals know each other in the small communities, their pets are often more ubiquitous than their owners. There’s Layla, the barrel-bodied pitbull who’s bull-dozing gait clears tables and chairs if left unattended. Then there’s the half-blind basset hound, Beauregard, a dive bar junkie who lumbers along mopping the beer-soaked floor with his ears. But while these dogs are well-known for their quirky personas and general presence, there’s only one dog who actually engages, entertains, and receives invites at every social gathering. Meet River.
River, an Australian shepherd and labrador mix was adopted by Garl Harrold four years ago. Within the first few months River managed to get her tongue stuck in a Kong ball and Garl faced either a $4,000 surgical procedure or the option to put her down. Fortunately, it was a good year for Garl’s Coastal Kayaking and he footed the bill. To this day, it seems she has tried every possible way of repaying her debt with the hundreds of coconuts she fanatically peels. Piles of husks litter the front lawn and Garl is always quick to offer a fresh coconut water to anyone that visits the house. Her half tongue has left her uncontrollably drooling, sliming anyone that dares to walk near her mouth. After years of shucking the hardened coconuts her canines have eroded down to what looks like a dentist’s solution for delinquent dogs. Garl has tried to ease her into tennis balls, racquetballs, and even baseballs, but she destroys them all the same as if there were something delicious waiting at the center of all round things.
While Garl is out leading trips into the wilds of the Everglades he has to leave his dog behind. At home, unleashed and unbound River commonly takes off to explore the neighborhoods and retrieve anything that strangers offer to throw. When she’s not out on her own, friends and coworkers come by and voluntarily pick her up to spend an afternoon with the legendary dog. Unfortunately, her forever-loving labrador naivety has landed her in the cars of strangers excited to claim her for themselves. That is, until her captors cease from throwing objects, and finally bored, she follows her internal compass back home. So River, this post is for you. Even though you can’t read, I’ll feel better telling the world that you have made my last few years brighter. Oh, and I’ll go ahead and confess that I may have dropped your name once or twice at Sharkey’s to get the locals discount. So thanks.
Spoonbill Monitoring: Central Everglades
While my work generally has me boating and paddling around Florida Bay and the Southern Everglades, the Tavernier Science Center also works closely with the district throughout South Florida. This relationship ensures that we have a comprehensive data set for roseate spoonbills and other wading birds nesting all along the River of Grass watershed. Since nesting starts later the farther North you go, I was invited with coworker Adam Chasey in early March to accompany Robin Bennet and Mark Cook on an aerial survey of bird colonies in the water conservation areas.
We left out of West Palm Beach and flew over the sprawling city. It looked so alien on the fringe of such a subtle environment.
You all know by now how I am on small airplanes so I was relieved to learn we’d be flying in style; a 407 helicopter, which is one of the smoothest rides out there. A few weeks prior I tried to access these colonies by airboat with University of Florida biologists, but failed miserably when our vessel got stuck in the dense sawgrass and cattails. That’s another story though.
Our main goal was to get spoonbill counts and see if we could spot bands which would tell us if our birds from the Bay were moving north to find other suitable nesting grounds. This turned out to be a tall order, however, as we learned the hard way. I thought that with a helicopter we’d be able to set down and explore the colonies on foot to find nests and adults within a photographable distance. What we learned after walking 30 feet into the waist-deep mire revealed that these tree islands are far different from the mangrove islands on the Bay. Too easily turned around and unable to see above the sawgrass which lacerated our arms and legs, Adam and I returned to the helicopter and attempted to photograph spoonbills from the air.
Thanks to our phenomenal pilot, Jake Wells, we were able to fly wing to wing with a small group and in no time, spotted our first band! For someone who spends most of his days looking up at spoonbills soaring across a blue sky, my heart melted as I flew side by side with these pink beauties. What an experience and better yet, what great data!
Loxahatchee River
There are only two rivers that flow freely into Lake Okeechobee, Fisheating Creek is one, and the Loxahatchee is the other. Before we started replacing our natural waterways with canals, Floridian creeks and rivers had personality, a sinuosity marked by thousand-year hardwoods and abundant wildlife. For this reason, unaltered rivers like the Loxahatchee are our best windows into the past. Early this month I had the unique opportunity to spend two days camping on the river while conducting spoonbill research via helicopters in the central Everglades. Fortunately, Adam Chasey and I met up with Radio Green Earth host Jim Jackson and Albrey Arrington, the Chief Executive of the Loxahatchee River District to learn more about the area and its role in Everglades Restoration. You can hear some clips of the recorded show in the podcast section here: RadioGreenEarth.org
I always wanted to put a paddle in the famed Loxahatchee. Its century-old cypress and winding blackwater gives it the title “Florida’s most scenic river.” Surprisingly it’s relatively unpopulated even on a weekend. When Adam and I were launching our canoe a couple came over to us and asked how we found out about the river, as if it were a local secret. I love places like this!
Our first day on the river we paddled a little over two miles in 4 hours. Not because it was a difficult paddle, but because it was difficult to stay in the boat and stop exploring the high banks studded with twisted cypress knees. On a branch not more than ten feet off the water a pair of barred owls preened and flirted paying us no attention.
Palms hung over the river, so of course we had to see who would be daring enough to walk across, which then promptly turned into a game of chicken, “who can go no hands… upsidedown?” This is my kind of swampin… I can’t wait to go back!
American Crocodiles:
American crocodiles are probably my favorite animal in the Everglades. I grew up with alligators, played tag with their tails, swam with them, and even caught a few (all of which I would never condone). They’re a dime a dozen in most Florida waterways. Everglades National Park, however, is the only place in the world where alligators and crocodiles share the same space. Double bonus! I’ve photographed alligators so many times that I’m constantly trying to find new ways of photographing them.
Crocodiles, however, are completely different beasts. In the United States they are considered endangered species and estimates range from 2,000-3,500 individuals. Besides the physical differences (longer snout, more abrupt scales, coloration, eye color, and jaw line), American crocodiles seem to have little in common with the alligators I came to know as a kid. While their gaze and exposed teeth are more menacing, they’re actually incredibly shy and tough to approach. I’ve tried for nearly two years to capture a worthy image of these reptiles without much luck. It always seems that just as I am closing in with good light and camera ready, they scuttle off into the murky water. I do, however, have plenty of images of a giant splashing tail.
I embrace these types of challenges, though. The trick to any wildlife photography is figuring out the animal’s habits and then putting yourself right in the middle of it. Reptiles are fairly predictable creatures. Knowing that above all else they need to warm their bodies by sunlight, I tried a technique I employed while in South Carolina. Setting my camera trap up at one of their favorite basking locations I let the shutter run for three days at 2 minute intervals. I was disappointed not to find a single crocodile when I returned to retrieve the camera but they simply have too many places they frequent to depend on one location with a static, un-manned camera. I needed a bottleneck; some sort of biotic or abiotic factor that would increase my chances of getting close.
Taking to the air, I scouted out locations where I thought they might congregate. It turns out flying over Cape Sable during a cold winter day the best way to see American crocodiles in the Everglades. While this made for a couple “keeper” images, I needed something better, closer, where viewers could get right down in the dragon’s lair.
Luckily I’m not the only one down here who thinks these sorts of missions are fun. A few friends of mine, Garl Harrold, Mark Parry, and April Geisler were all patiently waiting for a cold weekend to sweep through the Everglades this winter to get close looks at crocodiles. We had one day where the temperature was just barely cold enough and water levels moderately low to concentrate the reptiles in a few remote locations. I had my bottleneck!
We woke up at 4 AM and trailered a boat loaded with a kayak and canoe out to the park. Putting in right at sunrise we headed out for the Cape Sable area. Anchoring the boat, we portaged the kayak and canoe loaded with enough food, water, and camera gear through salt marsh until reaching the water. While I cannot disclose where this area is, I will say that it’s no easy task to get there.
Paddling 7 miles, we finally made it to the mud banks where the year prior I saw over 40 crocodiles, only to find they had all slipped into the water. It turns out the 60-degree weather just wasn’t cold enough to keep them from moving. I was almost heart-broken. Muddy, wet, sore, and tired, I knew I’d have to wait another year for a shot like this.
Disappointed, we anchored the boats and started eating lunch until Mark yelled out from the shore that he found a croc still submerged in the mud. We slogged over and it took me about a minute to actually see the crocodile. Its whole body was camouflaged with the mud and the only part visible was a neon green and yellow eye glowing in the afternoon sun. This is what I came for!
Slowly and cautiously, I walked around the crocodile so as not to scare it off or scare it towards me, and began shooting photos from a distance. Once I felt the 8-foot croc was comfortable or tolerant of us being there, I moved in a little closer. The tingling in my fingertips and tension in my thighs felt the palpable presence of wild nature. Those of you who have been close to large wildlife, know exactly what I’m talking about. I want to believe I made a connection with this crocodile, that we bonded for a moment, but the biologist in me knows that it’s a simple calculation in the crocodile’s mind which allowed me to stay. It was cold and he didn’t want to spend the energy to defend his spot. Ten very sweaty and nervous minutes later, I had the image I’d been envisioning for the last two years.
The difference between how I felt just before biting into my lunch, knowing that we hadn’t found the crocodiles we came to see and finding ol green-eye laying up in the mud was a complete 180. I know I shouldn’t rely on wildlife for the barometer of my happiness, but after years of planning I was too emotionally involved. Treasure hunters probably feel this way all the time. Luckily this year we didn’t come up empty-handed, or one-handed for that matter.
All jokes aside, wild crocodilians are not what I would consider to be aggressive animals. When unprovoked and unmolested they are simply observers and tend to avoid humans at all costs. To them, we’re big potential predators and they want nothing to do with us. To assume that every alligator or crocodile is just waiting for a chance to bite people is baseless. To this day there still has yet to be an unprovoked alligator or crocodile attack in Everglades National Park and there is no shortage of tasty tender-skin tourists running around. Still, I do not encourage people to get close to alligators, crocodiles, or other animals. I was accompanied by a wildlife biologist who works professionally with crocodiles and alligators and I myself have years of experience with these animals. No crocodiles were harmed in any way in the making of these photos. Please do not attempt this in your local swamps or parks.


















































































































































































